seasonal recipes and tips
Between the bookshelves at bookstores, libraries, and the vast reach of the Internet, finding a recipe for anything these days is nearly effortless. Yet finding recipes that follow the rhythm of the harvest season might take more work. The recipes and tips that Marilou Suszko offers here will remind you of what’s coming out of farm fields and gardens and showing up at farmers markets throughout Ohio and the Midwest. Enjoy her seasonal pairing of ingredients with recipes that highlight, not overwhelm, homegrown flavors.
Check back often because the recipes will change right along with the season.
The Huron County Chamber of Commerce Home Show
The snow may have been piling up but those who attended the Huron County Chamber of Commerce Home Show on February 27th were in the mood for some fresh flavors and a preview of recipes that call for locally grown ingredients. Be patient, homegrown flavor is on the way. The highlight of the cooking demonstration was the Turnip Soup—seriously! The “poor relative” vegetable won over everyone from turnip fans to hardened skeptics. Here is that recipe plus a few others that disappeared in minutes. Thanks for joining me! Be sure to look for more recipes in my recipe section on OurOhio.
In this recipe, all of the classic ingredients that go into a creamy hummus revolve around fresh seasonal green peas instead of the traditional chickpeas. The result is a bright, sweet flavor and beautiful color. Use it as a dip or as a spread for sandwiches.
Makes 6 to 8 appetizer servings
3 cups freshly shelled peas [you can use frozen]
3 cloves garlic, peeled
3 tablespoons tahini
Juice of one large lemon
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon olive oil, more or less to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of chili powder or chipotle powder
4 8-inch pita rounds
Extra virgin olive oil
Place the peas in a large saucepan of boiling water. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes until tender. Drain and set aside to cool.
Place the garlic, tahini, and lemon juice into the work bowl of a food processor. Add the peas and process for about 30 seconds. Add the cumin, salt, olive oil, pepper, and chili powder and process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the work bowl once or twice. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
To prepare the pitas, preheat the oven to 375°F. Cut each of the rounds into eight wedges. Brush both sides lightly with olive oil and arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes or until golden and slightly crispy. Remove from oven and allow to cool before serving with the hummus. Chips may be stored in a container with a tight fitting lid for up to a week.
Make your own Tahini: Tahini is ground sesame paste, typically found in classic hummus recipes. You can make your own for a fraction of what commercially prepared tahini costs. Take 2 cups of untoasted sesame seeds and place them in the work bowl of a food processor. Add 1/2 cup olive oil and process into a coarse paste. Add up to 1/4 cup additional oil until the mixture is smooth with a faintly coarse texture. Store in a well-sealed jar in the refrigerator for 3 months. Stir before using.
Eggs, maple syrup, butter, bread, bacon…sounds like a trip to the farmers market. There’s lots of satisfaction to be had when the majority of ingredients in a recipe can be locally sourced—even more when it tastes as good as these clever little brunch servings do.
Baked Eggs in Maple Toast Cups
Makes 3 to 6 servings
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus extra for muffin cups
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup, plus extra to accompany
6 slices of white bread, sandwich style, crusts trimmed
3 slices of bacon, cooked and crumbled
6 large fresh eggs
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter 6 muffin cups or 6
4-ounce ramekins. Melt the butter with the syrup.
Flatten each slice of bread with a rolling pin. Brush both sides with the butter mixture and tuck into the muffin cups. Divide the crumbled bacon between the cups. Crack an egg into each cup. Bake until the eggs are set and opaque and the yolks are still soft about 14 minutes. Check the eggs after 10 minutes. Let cool for just few minutes before removing from the muffin cups. Serve, passing additional warmed maple syrup, if desired.
As humble and rustic as turnips may be, they made a wonderfully sophisticated main course or appetizer soup. Choose younger, fresh turnips for a mild finish and top with crunchy croutons for the perfect compliment and contrast.
Turnip Soup with Seasoned Croutons
Makes 4 to 6 servings
2 pounds young turnips, peeled and sliced
4 cups rich chicken stock
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon white pepper
¼-1/2 cup whipping cream (optional)
2 cups freshly cubed bread, crusts removed
2 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, chopped
½ teaspoon paprika
Salt, to taste
Combine the turnips, stock, butter, salt, sugar and pepper in a heavy pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes or until the turnips are tender. Working in batches, puree the mixture in a blender until smooth. Return to the pot and stir in the cream. Gently reheat. Ladle the soup into warmed bowls and top with seasoned croutons.
To make the croutons, preheat the oven to 375°F. Toss the cubed bread with the olive oil, garlic, paprika, and salt until coated. Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake for 15 to 18 minutes, stirring twice, until the croutons are crispy and golden. Remove and let cool completely.
May be made 3 days in advance and stored in an airtight container.
Fabulous Recipes from the Fabulous Food Show:
Cooking With Local Ingredients
Thank you for joining me at the Taste of the Neighborhood Stage at the Fabulous Food Show. I hope I've inspired you as you prepare your table for the Thanksgiving holiday. Remember to be thankful for farmers who worked this year to provide for our families and community.
This recipe is adapted from an editorial written by Ruth Reichl, long time editor of the soon to be history Gourmet magazine. It's a shame it was buried in text because readers who scanned the magazine solely in search of recipes may have missed this one—and it's a winner. It calls for a small pumpkin and while you'll be tempted to reach for the familiar pie pumpkin, thing outside the bright orange shell and try a Tan Cheese—beautiful and beige on the outside, brilliant orange and sweet on the inside. It almost looks like a serving dish!
Pumpkin Fondue
Makes 6 appetizer servings
3-4 cups whole wheat or whole grain bread chunks, lightly toasted in the oven
1 4-pound pumpkin, preferably
a Tan Cheese
¾ cups half and half
½ cup rich chicken stock
½ teaspoon grated nutmeg, plus extra
1 ¼ cups grated Swiss or Gruyere cheese
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the top off the pumpkin and remove the stringy pulp and seeds. Combine the half and half, chicken stock, and grated nutmeg in a small bowl.
To assemble, place a layer of bread chunks inside the pumpkin. Add 1/3 of the cheese and 1/3 of the liquid. Repeat with two more layers, pressing and compacting the ingredients in the pumpkin shell. Place the top back on the pumpkin and brush the outside of the shell with the olive oil. (Can be made a few hours in advance and refrigerated.)
Place the pumpkin in a baking dish or on a sturdy baking tray to catch any possible drippings. Place in the oven for about an hour, more or less time depending on the size and thickness of the pumpkin. If the pumpkin gets too charred for your liking, reduce the heat to 350°F.
The pumpkin fondue is done when the pulp on the inside is soft, buttery, and scoop-able yet the shell is still intact.
Before serving, grate additional nutmeg over the fondue. Scoop out portions with a large spoon into small bowls, making sure to get some of the pulp.
Do not be put off by what appear to be a long, complicated recipe. It’s quite simple, can be done in stages, and some portions even days ahead of time. The colors that great you at this soup course are amazing—burgundy, orange, greens, and gold. But it’s the wonderful, local flavors from ingredients still available in November that are just as exciting. Most varieties of acorn squash can be substituted for the Carnival including Sweet Dumpling, Buttercup, and Ambercup…keep them small, around a pound each.
Red Beet & Ohio Apple Soup in Roasted Carnival Squash
Makes 6 servings
6 acorn squash, Carnival variety
Vegetable oil
Kosher salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 medium red onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 pounds roasted red beets, coarsely chopped (directions follow)
1 sweet Ohio apple such as Gala or Golden Delicious,
peeled, cored, and chopped
3 cups rich chicken stock or vegetable stock, plus extra to thin
2 cups water
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Sour cream (thinned with milk) or crème fraiche, to accompany (optional)
To roast the beets:
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Trim the roots and leaves from cleaned beets. Arrange on a large sheet of heavy-duty foil, drizzle with a little olive oil, and wrap loosely. Place the packet on a baking sheet and roast, for an hour or more, depending on the size of the beets. Beets are done when soft. Remove from the oven and let cool enough to handle easily. Slip the skins from the beets and coarsely chop. [Beets can be roasted, peeled, and chopped a day ahead and refrigerated until needed]
To prepare the squash “bowls”:
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Cut the tops off the squash (about an inch). Scoop out the seeds and discard. Cut a thin slice off the bottom of the squash so it will sit flat. Sprinkle salt in the cavity. Put the top back on the squash and brush with the oil. Arrange the squash in a large, shallow baking pan. Roast until the flesh is tender but the shell is still intact, approximately 45 minutes to one hour.
To prepare the soup:
Melt the butter in heavy stockpot or large saucepan. Add the oil. Then add the onion, cooking until soft and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Add the chopped beets and apple and cook for an additional 5 minutes until the apple has softened. Add the garlic and sauté a minute longer. Add the stock and the water. Cover and cook until beets are tender, about 30 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and the brown sugar.
Puree the soup in batches in a blender (it does a better job than the food processor) or right in the pot with a hand-held immersion blender, until very smooth. If the soup is too thick, thin with additional stock. Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper and reheat, if necessary. (The soup can be made a few days ahead, chilled, and reheated.)
To serve: Ladle the hot soup into the warm squash bowls and drizzle or adorn with creme fraiche or sour cream that has been thinned with milk.
Fabulous Recipes from The Fabulous Food Show:
Cooking with Ohio Wines
If you’re here because you joined me along with some of Ohio’s finest winemakers at the Fabulous Food Show, thanks! I hope you enjoyed the presentation and enjoyed a taste of what Ohio wines can do for a recipe. Here are the recipes prepared on the Culinary Celebration Stage.
Simple recipes with great ingredients equal great results. This is a recipe that used juicy, Ohio apples bathed in a sweet, syrup Cabernet Franc wine sauce with sweet dried cherries that have soaked up the flavor of the wine.
Baked Ohio Apples with a Red Wine Cherry Sauce
Makes 2 servings
2 medium-sized Ohio apples, baking varieties including Rome and Johnathan
1 tablespoon butter
1 cup Ohio red wine (Cabernet Franc is a good choice)
3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 cinnamon stick
½ cup dried red cherries
Preheat the oven to 350°F. To bake the apples, use a melon baler to core the apples, leaving the bottom intact. Cut the skin around the top core holes to open the apple up about an inch. Place a half-tablespoon of butter in the core of each apple. Sprinkle a tablespoon of water in the baking dish. Bake for 35 minutes to 1 hour, brushing the apples once or twice with the juices. (Cooking times will vary depending on the variety of apple and the size.) The apple is done when it can be easily pierced with a fork. Let cool while making the sauce.
Combine the wine, brown sugar, cinnamon stick, and dried cherries in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and let cook for 7 to 10 minutes until reduced by half, the alcohol smell is gone, and the sauce is thickened.
Serve over a baked apple and serve with vanilla ice cream
If you’re really committed to making as much of your kitchen a locavore’s dream, right down to the nitty-gritty details, start by incorporating locally grown ingredients in condiments—mustards, ketchups, pestos, spreads, sauces, and more. This classic mustard features Ohio wine (I used a chardonnay).
Ohio Style Dijon
Makes approximately ¾ cup
1/4 cup dry mustard powder
1 tablespoon light brown sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon turmeric (for color)
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
Dash of sweet paprika
¼ cup mustard seed
½ cup cider vinegar
½ cup local white wine (Chardonnay preferred)
In a saucepan, whisk together the mustard powder, sugar, salt, turmeric, garlic powder, and paprika. Grind the mustard seed in a spice grinder for one minute and add to the saucepan, whisking to combine. Whisk in the liquid. Turn the heat on to medium high and bring the mixture to a boil, whisking constantly. Boil for 30 seconds without whisking. Remove from heat and whisk for 10 seconds. Set aside to cool. Store in a glass jar with a tight fitting lid in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks.
Variation: To make Honey Mustard, place 2 tablespoons of mustard in a small bowl and whisk in one tablespoon of honey. Taste and adjust to your liking, adding more honey or mustard. To thin, add a little cider vinegar.
Here something special for your holiday entertaining menus. If you have frozen chive or chive blossoms, toss them into the pancake batter. Dried dill is a good substitute, too. The confit is a condiment of red onions with a candy like finish thanks to a brown sugar syrup and Cabernet Franc. Offset by the tart and tangy taste of the crème fraiche, this appetizer is fun to put together and fun to eat.
Chive Pancakes with Red Onion & Wine Confit
Makes 30 appetizer servings
Herb Pancakes:
¾ cup all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 large egg, beaten
¼ cup milk, plus extra to thin
1 ½ tablespoons finely chopped chives (fresh or frozen)
1 ½ tablespoons canola oil
Sift flour, baking powder, and salt together. Make a well in the center. Add egg and milk and gradually stir in the flour and mix to a smooth batter. Stir in the herbs.
Brush a frying pan or griddle with oil. Preheat over medium heat. Working in batches, drop heaping teaspoonfuls of mixture onto the hot surface. Cook until bubbles appear and underside is golden, about 3 minutes. Turn and brown on other side for 2 minutes. Brush pan with oil between batches. Cool pancakes and serve at room temperature.
Note: Can be made up to 2 days in advance and stored in an airtight container in refrigerator. Crisp in a preheated 400°F oven for 3 minutes.
Red Onion & Wine Confit:
3 tablespoons sugar
1 ½ tablespoons water
2 tablespoons Ohio red wine, preferably Cabernet Franc
1 large red onion, finely diced
Salt and black pepper, to taste
¾ cup prepared Crème Fraiche
1 ½ tablespoons chopped fresh chives, as garnish
Put the sugar and water in a small saucepan and stir to dissolve. Bring to a boil over medium how heat and cook to a dark caramel, without stirring. Remove from heat and add wine and onions. Return to the heat and stir until onion softens, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and cool to room temperature.
Note: Can be made up to a day in advance. Cover and store in the refrigerator. Let mixture return to room temperature before using.
To make crème fraiche: Heat 1 cup heavy cream to 80°-85°F. Be careful not to overheat. Transfer to clean container and add 1 cup buttermilk, cover with plastic wrap and let sit in a warm spot at room temperature until slightly thickened, about 24 hours. Chill before using. It will be the consistency of loose yogurt. Store in the refrigerator for up to 10 days.
To assemble, top each pancake with a teaspoon of crème fraiche and another of the red onion confit. Garnish with chives and serve at room temperature.
A sabayon is a light, foamy dessert custard served warm or chilled. This particular recipe is filled with locally grown and produced ingredients including fresh eggs, peaches (fresh or those you canned this past summer), and Ohio Ice Wine.
Ohio Ice Wine Sabayon
Makes 4 servings
9 egg yolks
1⁄4 cup Ohio Ice Wine
1⁄2 cup sugar
4 fresh peaches or canned Ohio Peaches in light syrup, peeled, pitted and sliced
Mint leaves, to garnish
Place about 1-inch of water in the bottom pan of a double boiler. Place over medium heat and heat until the water is hot but not boiling. In the upper pan, off the heat, whisk together the egg yolks, wine, and sugar. Place over the hot water. Whisk constantly until the mixture has a thick, foamy consistency, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool for 5 minutes.
Serve immediately or refrigerate until ready to use. To assemble, place a dollop of the sabayon in a martini glass, top with peach slices or diced peaches, and garnish with a mint leaf. Serve with a glass of ice wine.
This recipe requires a little advanced planning. The lavender sugar, a defining flavor, need to be made a week before needed to scent the sugar with that wonderful, heady lavender aroma. Add sweet Ohio Ice Wine and this is a cookie your guests will not soon forget. It’s best to make this recipe in a rectangular tart pan (14”L x 4”W) or a 7-inch round tart pan with removable bottoms. It's a terrific holiday cookie as well as the perfect ending to a summer meal.
Ice Wine & Lavender Shortbread
Makes 12-14 cookies
2 tablespoons fresh or 1 tablespoon dried lavender
1 cup sugar
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1/3 cup lavender sugar, plus 1 tablespoon
Pinch of salt
4 tablespoon chilled butter, cut into dice
3 tablespoon Ohio Ice Wine
½ tablespoon lavender leaves (sifted from the sugar)
To make the lavender sugar, combine the sugar and lavender flowers in a container with a tight fitting lid. Store in a dry spot for at least one but up to 2 weeks. Sift the sugar through a fine sieve to remove the flowers before using.
To make the cookies, preheat the oven to 375°F.
In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, and salt until blended. Add the chilled butter and pulse until the mixture is coarse. Add the wine and the lavender flowers and pulse until the mixture resembles wet sand. Let the mixture sit for 10 minutes and then pulse again a few times until it loosely comes together.
Press the dough evenly in the tart pan. Sprinkle with the tablespoon of lavender sugar. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the top is just lightly golden and looks dry. Let cool for a few minutes then carefully remove from the tart pan and cut into small pieces or wedges. Let cool completely. Serve with fresh fruit and Ohio Ice Wine, of course.
It’s apple time in Ohio in case you haven’t noticed! The state’s orchards are now picking the late harvest apples, firm, crunchy varieties that keep well into the spring. If you’re like thousands of Ohioans personally plucking apples from our local orchards, how do you know if an apple is ripe for the picking? If it parts easily from the tree, no twisting or tugging, with the stalk attached, it’s ready.
Now that you’ve tested this tip over and over, you probably have more apples than you can use right now. If you want to store apples for the winter, here are a few tips.
First, don’t attempt to mix early season apples, those picked before mid September with the late season. The early varieties will release ethylene gases and hasten the ripening of the ones you just picked. Store them in a cool, well-ventilated room to “shed” or “sweat” for 2 or 3 days. Then sort them for storing, separating out any bruised or damaged fruits. Wrap each apple in a quarter sheet of newspaper so they don’t touch each other and store them somewhere where it’s constantly cool about 40°F, even all the way down to 32°F. An unheated attic is good; an unheated garage not so good as it fluctuates too much. The storage drawer of the refrigerator is a great place if you have that much room to devote. If they are subject to freezing, you’re cooked and they turn to mush.
This is a traditional apple cake but that doesn’t mean it’s common. It’s moist and tender thanks to the addition of heavy cream at the end. While it comes out of the oven light and sweet and ready to serve, it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. You’ll be amazed how it goes from light and sweet to moist and dense…but just as delicious.
Any crisp, juicy apple will do but Baldwins or a Rhode Island Greenings are good choices; Golden Delicious is a reliable standby; or you can take a mix of McIntosh and Cortland. Whatever your choice, crisp and juicy apples work best.
Awesome Apple Cake 
Makes 12 servings
12 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature plus extra for the pan
2 cups sugar, divided use
3 large eggs
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon cake flour
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
Pinch of kosher salt
¾ cup whole milk
¾ teaspoon vanilla extract
3 medium baking apples, peeled, cored, halved and thinly sliced
¾ cup heavy cream
1 ½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 10-inch round spring form pan with 2-inch sides and line the bottom with parchment paper.
Cream the butter with 1 ½ cups of sugar using an electric mixer for 3 to 5 minutes. Scrap the bowl, as needed. Continue to beat until very light in color, several minutes more. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, scraping the bowl between additions.
Sift together the flours, baking powder, and salt. Gently mix the milk and the dry ingredients, alternating each one, into the butter mixture, scraping the bowl as necessary. Add the vanilla and mix until just smooth.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan, spreading it evenly with a rubber spatula. Overlap the slices in a concentric circle on top of the batter to cover it completely. Gently pour the cream over the apples.
Stir together the remaining ½ cup sugar and cinnamon and sprinkle the mixture over the top. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Remove the pan from the oven, transfer to a wire rack and let cool for 15 minutes.
Invert the cake onto a rack, remove the parchment, and invert again onto a serving plate so the apple side is up. Serve warm or at room temperature. Once cooled, the cake can be stored, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for 3 days.
Recipe adapted from The Arrows Cookbook by Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier
What is a brownie? A brownie is a flat, baked square or bar, sliced from a type of dense, rich cake. Classic brownies are made with chocolate, but it’s not a rule and it should be broken occasionally. Some brownies contain nuts, dried fruits, oats, and in this case, Ohio apples. Serve it warm with ice cream on an October day and watch the leaves fall.
Apple Brownies
Makes 12 to 16 “brownies”
½ cup butter, softened
1 cup sugar
1 egg, beaten
2 apples, peeled, cored, and chopped
½ cup chopped pecans or walnuts
1 cup flour
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Cream butter and sugar for 5 minutes. Beat in the egg, and then mix in apples and pecans. Sift the dry ingredients together and mix into the apple mixture. Pour into a buttered, 8 x 8-inch baking dish and bake at 350°F for 40 minutes.
Of Cabbages, Kings and Other Good Things!
Cold weather crops are filling farm stands and farmers markets so you’re likely to find plenty of cabbage among other cruciferous vegetables including broccoli and cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and sturdy greens. But let’s talk about cabbage and the burning question on everyone’s mind: is there a difference between green and red cabbage? The answer is: yes. Green is green and red is red and basically that’s where the difference begins and ends. The beautiful magenta of cooked red cabbage creates a jewel toned filling for this hearty strudel, which can be served as a side dish or in appetizer portions. When red cabbage is cooked, it tends to turn a funky blue unless you add an acid like vinegar or lemon juice.
Sweet & Sour Red Cabbage Strudel
Makes about 40 appetizer servings
Strudel Filling:
4 teaspoons butter
1 large red onion, very thinly sliced
2 pound red cabbage, cored and very thinly sliced
1 bay leaf
1/3 cup raisins, chopped
½ cup dark brown sugar
½ cup red wine vinegar
Pinch of cloves
10 sheets phyllo dough
1 cup melted butter
To make the filling, melt the butter in a heavy pan with tall sides over medium heat. Stir in onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 4 minutes until very soft. Add the cabbage and stir to coat well with the butter. Add one cup of water, cover with the lid and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes. Uncover and add bay leaf. Cook uncovered for another 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Add raisins, sugar, vinegar, cloves, salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring continually so that the liquid can evaporate. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature before using.
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Keep all unused pastry under a lightly dampened towel. Lay one sheet of pastry on a work surface and brush generously with butter making sure to butter all the way to the edges. Place a second sheet of pastry on top and butter. Lay about 1/3 to ½ cup of the filling in a thin strip 1 inch from the long edge of the pastry. Give the pastry one roll over the filling, and then fold in the side edges. Continue to roll up the pastry. Place seam side down on an ungreased baking sheet. Brush with butter. Make 8 to 10 cuts down the roll, at about 1-inch intervals. Bake in the center of the oven for 15 to 18 minutes or until the pastry is golden. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature. With a serrated knife, score each roll across the top on the diagonal into small appetizer size portions.
When summer turns off the heat, fall arrives and treats us to one last blast of beautiful color…and not just in the leaves on the trees. Pumpkins and squash begin to show up on road side stands and markets in a multitude of colors, size and shapes—huge, tiny or flat, short, tall or round, pear necked, smoothed, ribbed, even warty. They’ve been used to add a fall motif to home decorating, but many of those same varieties are absolutely delicious and have been long overlooked in the kitchen. 
I’m here to tell you it’s time to start thinking outside the big orange jack-o-lantern and onto varieties with more flavor like the Cinderella Pumpkin, Tan Cheese, Jarrahdale, and my new personal favorite the Fairy Tale Pumpkin, possibly named so because it’s so good, it might not be real!
What these varieties, many heirlooms in nature, have that the classic orange
jack-o-lanterns lack is meat (or pulp) and lots of it. The seed chambers are smaller so the walls are thicker with intensely colored flesh. The textures between varieties vary from creamy smooth to somewhat stringy and some can push the “sweetness meter” all the way to the right, like the Fairy Tale Pumpkin. Fans of fresh pumpkins will often point you to the Tan Cheese varieties, versatile, meaty with a smooth flesh, and a wonderful pie pumpkin.
This is a good question and one that is not clearly defined by shape or color of the flesh. A pumpkin grower from Circleville, Ohio, host to the more than a century old Circleville Pumpkin Show, says that if the stem is soft, it’s a squash; if it’s hard and angular, it’s a pumpkin. Another will tell you more culinary than botanical,
squash having a finer texture, milder flavor, and lighter color while pumpkins have a coarser texture and a more intense orange colored flesh. Still another will say, what difference does it make? Squash and pumpkin can be substituted for one another in most recipes.
This delicious little recipe was demonstrated at the 103rd Circleville Pumpkin Show. You think those folks would have seen it all when it comes to pumpkins but this recipe just proves that you can teach a pumpkin new and tasty tricks. Be sure to make your own pumpkin puree with a fresh, local pumpkin!
Penne Pasta with Pumpkin Cream Sauce
Makes 4 to 6 servings
1 pound penne pasta
2 tablespoons butter
2 shallots, minced
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 ¾ cup pumpkin puree (about 15 ounces)
1 cup heavy whipping cream
½ cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese, plus extra
¼ cup chopped flat leaf parsley
Optional: ¼ to ½ pound prosciutto or smoked ham, cut in to thin strips
Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling, salted water. Cook until the past is al dente or still firm, but not hard. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water. Cover the pasta and set aside.
In the same pot, melt the butter over medium low heat. Add the shallots and sauté for two minutes. Add the red pepper flakes and sauté for an additional minute. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Add the pumpkin puree and the heavy whipping cream and stir until blended. Return the pasta to the pot along with the reserved pasta cooking water and the ham, if using. Toss until the pasta is coated with the pumpkin cream mixture. Stir in the Parmesan cheese. Taste and season with additional salt or pepper.
To serve, spoon the pasta in warmed bowls and top with chopped parsley and additional cheese.
Kaddo Bowrani or Afghani Pumpkin
is an unusual and original use for fresh pumpkin or squash and perhaps one of the most delicious. A small Sugar Pie pumpkin or a butternut squash works in this recipe but for the most colorful presentation, try a Cinderella Pumpkin.
Afghani Pumpkin
Makes 4 servings
2 pounds fresh pumpkin or squash, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes
¼ cup vegetable or canola oil
Sweet Tomato Sauce
1 teaspoon crushed garlic
1 cup water
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup sugar
4 ounces tomato sauce
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger root
1 teaspoon freshly ground coriander seeds
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Garlic Yogurt Sauce
1 clove crushed garlic
¼ teaspoon salt
¾ cup plain yogurt
Dried mint leaves, crushed
Steamed rice, to accompany
Heat the oil in a frying pan. Add the pumpkin cubes and fry on both sides for a couple of minutes until lightly browned.
Combine all the ingredients for the tomato sauce and add the mixture to the pan.Cover and cook 20 minutes over low heat until the pumpkin is soft and has absorbed most of the liquid.
Mix together all of the ingredients for the yogurt sauce.
To serve, spread most of the yogurt sauce on a plate and arrange the pumpkin on top. Top with any remaining yogurt and juices from the pan. Sprinkle with dried crushed mint leaves and serve with rice and pita bread.
Fresh pureed pumpkin has a lighter texture, brighter taste, and a more vibrant color than canned pumpkin. You can use this same method to bake and puree most squash, just adjust the cooking time for the size of the squash. You can use this pumpkin puree in recipes that call for canned pumpkin.
To thicken the consistency of the pureed pumpkin, it’s important to drain it, preferably overnight, through a couple of layers of cheesecloth. Remember…not every pumpkin is a great cooking pumpkin. Good choices are Sugar Pie Pumpkins, Cinderella Pumpkins, Long Island Tan Cheese, and Jarrahdale.
The yield will vary depending on the size and water content of the pumpkin variety but a good guess would be for every 4 pounds of pumpkin, you’ll get 1 ½ to 2 cups puree.
Fresh Pumpkin Puree
Yield will vary depending on size of pumpkin
1 fresh pumpkin
Place the pumpkin on a sturdy flat surface. Using a large, sharp knife cut the pumpkin in half vertically, from the stem end to the blossom end. [You may have to perform this by cutting down one side and then the other], or you can cut the pumpkin into thick wedges. Place the pieces flat on a baking tray. Sprinkle a little water on the tray, cover the pumpkins with aluminum foil and bake until the flesh is soft and the shell slightly collapses. The baking time will vary depending on the size of the pumpkin, but it could take up to an hour.
Remove and let sit until cool enough to handle.
Discard any liquid that has accumulated. Scoop out the pulp and blend, in batches, into a puree.
Line a large sieve or colander with several layers of cheesecloth or a large paper coffee filters and place over a large bowl. Cover the surface of the puree with plastic wrap. Place it in the refrigerator and let it drain overnight.
Pack in freezer containers or plastic bags in 1 ¾ cup or 15-ounce increments (because many recipes call for a 15-ounce can of pumpkin). Freeze for up to a year.
If you love yeast breads more than you love kneading the dough, this recipe is for you. Just be sure to plan ahead. The slow rise in the refrigerator helps develop the flavor.
Slow Rise, No Knead Pumpkin Dinner Rolls
Makes 2 dozen rolls
2 envelopes active dry yeast
¼ cup warm water (100-115 degrees)
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 cup pumpkin puree
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup sugar
1 tablespoon minced fresh herbs
2 teaspoons kosher salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more to taste
3-4 cups all-purpose flour
Olive oil for greasing the bowl
3 tablespoons melted butter, for baking pans and brushing rolls
In a large mixing bowl, stir the yeast into the warm water to dissolve. Beat in the eggs, pumpkin, butter, sugar, herbs, salt, and cayenne. Add 3 cups of the flour, beating until smooth. Add more flour as needed to make a soft, slightly tacky dough.
Oil a large bowl and turn the dough into it. Cover with a towel and let rise until double in bulk for about 1 ½ hours. Stir dough down, cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator overnight.
Butter two 9-inch round cake pans. Punch the dough down again and divide into 24 equal pieces. Shape each piece into round balls and arrange them in the pans so they do not touch one another. Cover with a towel and let rise until double in bulk, about 45 minutes to an hour.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes until nicely browned. Brush melted butter on the top. Serve warm.
All of the flavors of fall can be found in this soup: pumpkin, cider, apples, onions, garlic, and potato. Feel free to substitute butternut squash or your favorite pumpkin variety.
Pumpkin Cider Bisque
Makes 8 servings
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 large onion, chopped
2 large potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes
2 large sweet apples, peeled, seeded and cut into small cubes
3 cups chicken stock
3 cups apple cider
4 cups fresh pumpkin puree
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more to taste
Salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
Fresh mint leaves, to garnish
Melt the butter in a large heavy stockpot. Add the onion and sauté for about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté until both garlic and onion are soft. Add the potatoes and apple, stirring to coat with butter. Add the chicken stock and apple cider. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cover the pot and cook for 25 to 30 minutes or until the apple and potato pieces are soft and mash easily against the side of the pot. Stir in the pumpkin puree. Heat through, without boiling, Add the cayenne, salt, and black pepper to taste.
Working in batches, puree soup in a blender until smooth. Return to the pot. Reheat until hot. Garnish with mint, if desired, and serve.
Choose the brightest fleshed pumpkin available for this recipe. Three primary ingredients: pumpkin, orange, and ginger come together for one big taste. Serve it as a spread or use it to fill whole wheat pastry tarts.
Pumpkin Orange Marmalade
Makes about 2 cups
2 cups pumpkin puree
1 cup orange marmalade
2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger
½ teaspoon ground ginger
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Combine the puree, marmalade, and ginger in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. The mixture will be very thick. Remove from heat and stir in ground ginger and lemon juice. Let cool to room temperature. At this point, the marmalade can be transfer to a covered container and refrigerated for up to one week.
To serve, spread the marmalade on toasted slices of whole wheat baguette with a sliver of sharp, aged cheddar cheese or a grating of salty, aged cheese like Parmesan or Asiago.
Why reserve catsup just for tomatoes? Smooth and sweet pumpkin is a great base for this recipe that puts an unusual spin on a classic favorite. Add some oven baked Sweet Potato Fries and you have a fitting salute to fall weather.
Spicy Pumpkin Catsup
Makes 1 ¼ cups
1 cup pumpkin puree
1 small onion, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
½ cup water
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
½ teaspoon ginger
½ teaspoon ground allspice
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground mustard
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon black pepper
Combine all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes, uncovered, until thick and the consistency of traditional catsup. [If you find the mixture gets too thick before the cooking time is over, add additional water in small increments.)
Let cool slightly then process to a puree in a blender or food processor.
Use hot as a sauce or refrigerate for a couple of hours and serve chilled as a catsup. The catsup will keep for one week stored in a covered container.
Makes 4 serving
2 large sweet potatoes, about 1 ½ pounds each
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon cumin
Preheat an oven to 425°F. Peel the potatoes and cut in half lengthwise. Cut each half into 6 wedges. Brush the wedges with oil and arrange on a baking sheet.
Combine the salt, cayenne, pepper, and cumin in a small bowl and sprinkle evenly over the potato wedges.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes until the edges are crisp and potatoes are cooked through. Cool slightly before serving with Spicy Pumpkin Catsup.
To Ferment or Not to Ferment? Adventures in Sauerkraut
That is the question, but what is the answer? At the end of six weeks, we'll all know. My friend Margaret, one of my favorite sources for locally grown produce, and I worked in tandem to prepare 30 pounds of cabbage for homemade sauerkraut. For anyone who has ever tried this experiment, you are already either laughing or pinching your nose because you know what’s coming. Fermenting cabbage can perfume the home with some pretty unsavory scents. So if you’re looking for a way to avoid hosting the family holiday get together this year, start a crock of kraut now.
Here’s how Margaret and I started our stinkin' adventure:
I washed and scrubbed a 12-gallon crock absconded from another pal, Tracy, then hauled it in my basement where the temperature is pretty constant, between 70°F and 75°F. Margaret sliced 30 pounds of cabbage into ribbon-like shreds and then left it in her car overnight. This particular move is not a requirement, just a bad judgment call. The next morning, she drove to my house with her car windows rolled down reminding herself never to do that again.
We divided the cabbage into 5-pound segments, tossing each batch with 3 tablespoons of kosher salt. We tossed and tossed again to make sure the salt was evenly distributed. We waited just a few minutes for the cabbage to wilt and release a little water before adding it to the crock and packing it down evenly. When the last layer went in, we took a linen flour sack, laid it across the top of the kraut and tucked in the sides. Then we took a two extra heavy-duty plastic trash bags, tucked one inside the other, and filled it with a half-gallon or so of water. This went on top of the kraut, creating a nice tight and even seal around the top layer.
Margaret and I then patted ourselves on the backs for a job well done and talked about how we would be canning some really delicious kraut in a few weeks. After she left, I began to wonder why didn’t we conducted this little project at her house? Now I have the job of babysitting a crock of kraut, changing the linen every day, and scraping any “scum” that forms on the top, checking to see if it turns a problematic pink or brown, rots or spoils. The goal, of course, is 12 to 14 quarts of snowy white kraut which we’ll can right aroundHalloween. What kid doesn’t love a can of kraut in their trick-or-treat bag?
Two of the biggest connections to failure with fermenting cabbage to kraut is the failure to distribute the salt evenly and the failure to maintain a constant temperature—lessons hard learned and one that last year resulted in 40 pounds of kraut compost. If my basement holds a temperature between 70F° and 75°F, we may be looking at kraut in 4 weeks. If the temperature holds at 60°F to 65° F, it might be closer to 5 or 6 weeks.
Follow my adventures with a day-by-day account of what’s happening with the 30 pounds of fermenting cabbage in my basement on FunMitKraut on Twitter. My hope is that this will serve as your inspiration or warning about making homemade sauerkraut.
If you’re thinking about adding a crock of bubbling, fermenting cabbage to your kitchen repertoire, go to the websites for the Ohio State University Extension or the University of Minnesota Extension more information.
Apple Strudel Making with St. Anthony's Marion Guild, Lorain
What do you get when you combine 60 hardworking ladies, 720 sheet of flaky phyllo dough, 3 bushels of Golden Delicious apples, and a lot of butter? Certainly a good time, but more importantly a lot of good strudel. Everyone went home with
a delicious strudel and a new confidence for working with delicate, flaky phyllo dough.
Now is the time to bake with Ohio apples. They are at their peak of flavor and choice of varieties. We used Golden Delicious apples, the classic pie apple. There are other suitable pie apples you can use as well including Jonathan, Stayman Winesap, and Wealthy. These varieties provide a good balance of sweet and tart flavor. Or you can mix varieties. Sweet choices include Mutsu, Rome Beauty and Empires. Tart varieties include Idared, Macoun, and Northern Spy. Avoid apples that cook down like McIntosh and Cortland—better choices for sauce.
Makes 8 to 10 servings
5 sheets fresh phyllo dough
3 to 4 large, Ohio Golden Delicious apples, peeled and cut into ½” cubes
¼ cup sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
¼ cup dry bread crumbs, plus extra for sprinkling
1 teaspoon cinnamon
4 tablespoons melted butter
Optional additions:
½ cup chopped walnuts
½ cup golden raisins
½ cup mixed dried fruit
Note: Phyllo dough will dry out easily. Be sure to cover it with a slightly damp cloth to prevent from drying out.
To prepare the filling, peel and slice the apples into small ½-inch cubes. (To prevent the apples from browning, squirt with lemon juice or 7-Up.)
To assemble the strudel, place one sheet of phyllo dough on a dry pastry cloth. Lightly brush with butter, working from the middle of the sheet out to the edges. Sprinkle with a little sugar and dry breadcrumbs. Place the send sheet on top and repeat until all five phyllo sheets have been used. Across the long end of the strudel, place apples about 1-inch away from the edge. Distribute ¼ cup of sugar and ¼ cup of breadcrumbs and cinnamon across the top of the apples along with any of the optional additions.
To roll the strudel, using the pastry cloth as a start, gently life and begin to tightly roll strudel to the end. Lightly brush edge with butter and seal. Brush open ends with butter and tuck in. (At this point, the strudel can either be transferred to a baking sheet or prepared for the freezer.)
To prepare for baking, using two hands or the assistance of the pastry cloth, place strudel, seam side down on a lightly buttered baking sheet or on a non-stick Silpat® baking sheet liner. Butter the top and sides of the strudel and sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar, if desired. Using a sharp knife or razor blade, place diagonal slashes about one-inch apart across the top. (This helps avoid flaky crumbs and creates nice slices when cutting into the finished product.)
To bake, preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake the strudel for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 325°F and bake for an additional 20 to 25 minutes or until golden brown. Let cool for 15 minutes before slicing or removing from the baking sheet.
To prepare strudel for freezing, lightly grease the middle section of a piece of foil (doesn’t matter which side) with shortening or butter. This will be the section where the strudel will lay. Place the strudel on the foil and brush the tops and sides with butter and sprinkling with sugar and cinnamon, if desired. Use a sharp knife or razor to cut slits across the top at 1-inch intervals. Let the strudel “dry” until surface has a pearl like finish. Wrap snuggly in foil and freeze up to 3 months.
To bake once frozen, do not thaw. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Remove from freezer, open the foil, and place on a baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes then reduce temperature to 325°F and bake an additional 30 to 35 minutes. If the strudel browns too quickly, place a sheet of foil loosely over the top. Let cool 10 minutes before slicing.
Recipes from That's Life with Robin Swoboda,
September 16th
Robin Swoboda frequently invites me onto her morning show, That’s Life on Cleveland’s Fox 8 and each time we talk, cook, and eat seasonal foods. It’s always a pleasure to share the great flavors of the moment with Robin as well as her viewing audience. On Wednesday, September 16th we made Sausage Roasted in Grapes, an extra special treat because I found some beautiful bunches of rose colored Reliance Grapes at A B Phillips & Sons Fruit Farm in Berlin Heights. I also stumbled upon a green seedless variety new to me—a Himrod . Wonderfully sweet and pretty to look at, I frozen them to enjoy as little “grapesicles” as the summer heat still lingers. I also made a Tomato Bread Pudding which I've made countless times at home this summer because I’ve had so many great tomatoes. Thanks for watching and I hope you enjoyed the show!
Makes 6 servings
3 pounds pork sausage, hot, sweet, or a combination
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
6 cups red seedless grapes
1⁄4 cup balsamic vinegar
Fill a large stockpot with water and bring to a boil. Pierce the casings of the sausages with the tip of a knife and place them in the boiling water. Boil gently for about 10 minutes, drain, and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place a large roasting pan or heavy Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Heat the butter and olive oil until melted and bubbly. Add the grapes and toss to coat. Remove from the heat. Place the sausages among the grapes, pushing them down into the pan.
Roast for about 25 to 30 minutes until the sausages are browned and the grapes are soft and jam like. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the grapes and sausages to a warm serving platter. Place the roasting pan over medium heat and add the vinegar, scraping the bottom of the pan to loosen the browned bits. Let the vinegar boil until reduced by half. Pour over the grapes and sausages, and serve immediately.
Cooks have been led to believe that eggplant is a bitter vegetable that needs extra attention—you would be, too if you were so misunderstood. Picked at the right time and the right size, eggplant is simple to work with, eager to please, and lends itself to a wide range of cooking techniques: steaming, sautéing, broiling, baking, grilling, and roasting
.
Regardless of color or shape, look for firm, shiny fruits, free of soft spots or wrinkles, with a fresh green cap or calyx. Needle-like spikes around the stem is a tip off that the eggplant is fresh. It should feel heavy for it’s size—if it feels light, it will be pulpy. Press the eggplant with your thumb. If it doesn’t give, it’s beenpicked to early; if the indentation remains, it’s overly ripe; and if it springs back, it’s perfect. Fresh, ripe eggplant is not bitter but those that are overripe and stored too long are spongy, seedy and likely bitter.
One size or color does not fit all when it comes to varieties of eggplant. In fact, few other vegetables think so outside the box. The packaging is different, from pudgy purple ovals, to elongated lavender-colored versions, to softball-sized globes in oranges and whites, but all eggplant is similar in flavor and texture. Rather than delivering big, bold flavor, cooked eggplant has a mild taste, creamy texture and serves as a blank canvas to absorb seasonings, sauces, and marinades.
Grilled Eggplant Salad
Serves 6
3 pounds eggplant, thin-skinned, slender varieties preferred,
cut into thin ½-inch planks
Extra virgin olive oil
½ red onion, diced
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
1 large clove garlic, minced
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint
Juice of one lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Preheat the grill to medium-high.
Generously brush the eggplant with oil on one side. Do this just before you place them on the grill because eggplant has a tendency to absorb oil. Grill until brown on one side, then generously brush with oil on the second side, turn and continue grilling until soft and tender, and grill marks appear, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl.
Add the onion, parsley, garlic, and mint and toss to mix. Add the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.
Let stand at room temperature for an hour before serving. To serve, arrange on individual salad plates.
Picking or purchasing eggplant young and fresh solves two classic struggles: eliminating bitterness and peeling. Peeling eggplant is a matter of preference. If a recipe has a long cooking time and the eggplant is thinly sliced, it’s usually enough to soften most skins but when in doubt, remove the skin with a vegetable peeler. Bitterness comes with age so if a recipe calls for the salting and draining, skip this step when working with truly fresh eggplant.
This eggplant spread makes a great pizza-style sauce. Spread it on thick pita bread, top with black olives, roasted red pepper, red onion and crumbled feta, warm in the oven the serve.
Roasted Eggplant Spread
Makes 2 cups
3 slender eggplants, or one medium black bell eggplant, unpeeled,
diced into 1⁄4-inch cubes
1 large tomato, diced into 1⁄4-inch cubes
1 small onion, diced into 1⁄4-inch cubes
1 or 2 jalapeño peppers, finely diced (see tip)
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra if needed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss the diced eggplant, tomato, onion, and jalapeño with the olive oil. Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes, until soft and lightly browned. Remove and let cool for 5 minutes.
Place the roasted vegetables in a food processor and process until smooth. Add additional olive oil if the mixture appears dry. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Tip: To control the heat of the jalapeño, remove the seeds and membrane before roasting.
Ohio peaches have been in short supply during the 2009 season. A January cold snap where temperatures around the state plunged well below zero is to blame for this year’s less than stellar harvest. Orchards all around the state report losses anywhere from 75 to 100 percent of their crop. For peach lovers like me that’s bad news. It puts us into persistent overdrive to find the elusive stone fruit 
because, let’s face it, if it’s not a tree-ripened Ohio peach, it doesn’t taste like a peach. I’ve been lucky enough to find enough Red Havens to can and freeze, Donut Peaches to throw onthe grill, and others like Madison and RedKist to eat my favorite way—over the sink with the juice running down my chin. It’s not pretty,but it is delicious!
Here’s a recipe that actually makes me look forward to the winter and the 8 pints waiting in the pantry. If you’re skilled at canning, you can put this up for later, or it can be made and refrigerated for a couple of months. This jam recipe is made without added pectin, typically used to thicken, gel, and stabilize jams and jellies, so the consistency is a little looser than commercial jams but the flavor is completely genuine and fantastic.
Peach Ginger Jam
Makes 8 pints
4 pounds perfectly ripe peaches, about 8 cups
4 cups sugar
4 tablespoons freshly grated ginger
Juice of ½ lemon
½-1 teaspoon ground allspice
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Prepare an ice water bath in the sink or a large bowl.
Cut an ‘x’ through the skin on the bottom of each peach. Working in batches, place the peaches in boiling water for 30 seconds to one minute, or until the skin loosens. Plunge them in the ice water bath.
When cool enough to handle, slip the skins off, halve the fruit and remove the pits. Coarsely chop the peaches and place in a large non-reactive pot. Add the sugar, ginger, lemon juice, and allspice. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, then reduce heat to low and cook for one hour or until the mixture thickens. To check and see if the mixture is the consistency you would like, ladle a small portion on a plate and refrigerate. Check in about 30 minutes to see if it has gelled and set up.
Ladle into clean jars or sealable containers and store in the refrigerator for up to 8 weeks.
For experienced canners...to preserve the jam, ladle the hot peach mixture into 8 sterilized , pint-sized jars, seal, and process in the canning bath for 5 minutes.
In the midst of canning a peck of Red Havens, a popular Ohio variety with a firm, fibrous flesh and a nicely sized for canning, I started thinking, “Could this possibly be worth all this?” Between waiting a few days for the peaches to ripen enough to easily peel after plunging in boiling water, shocking in an ice 
bath, slipping the skins off, splitting in half, removing the pit which clings just enough to be annoying, making the light syrup to add to the jar, packing the jar, boiling the lids—it just went on and on. This bad attitude predictably creeps up on me only when I can peaches, my favorite fruit no less.
Three hours later, I was looking at 14 pint jars of peach halves lined up on the counter. The sun coming through the kitchen window bounced off them just right and the kitchen walls sparkled with glistening flecks of gold. It was, of course, a sign from God that indeed all this fuss was worth my time.
Come January or February, when I’m enjoying yet another Ohio peach over my cereal or for dessert with a dash of cinnamon, I’ll remember that, in this rare case, it was not the journey but the destination that mattered.
One of the most coveted finds on our food landscape is a fruit tree in your neighborhood that exists under the radar. In other words, it’s there, it produces fruit, no one tends it, sprays it or prune it, and it bears fruit... great fruit. Oh, one or two has a blemish which you overlook because what you hold in your hand is the true organic without the paperwork or the label. And once you ask the property owner for permission to pick (and most oblige because that saves them from picking up the fruit that drops and rots), it’s free food!
That’s my food find this year—a pear tree less than 200 feet from my front door bearing beautiful, curvy Bartletts. I have a few recipes under my sleeve but judging by the branches curving under the weight of the fruit, I might want to find a few more.
Make this brandy today and it will be mellow and ready for the Thanksgiving holiday. Use inexpensive brandy for this recipe. The pear will help mellow the flavor.
Pear Brandy
Makes 3 cups
1 firm, ripe pear
3 cups brandy
Rinse the pear and pat dry. Place in a quart canning jar. Pour the brandy over the pear (the pear must be covered). Place a small square of plastic wrap over the top and then seal with a lid (the plastic protects any rubber or synthetic seal from softening). Store at room temperature for about 3 months before serving.
Pan roasting the pears caramelizes the cut surface and turns firm pears soft and butter. A melon scoop neatly removes the seeds and creates a nice cavity for the cream mixture. You can also substitute peaches, if desired.
Balsamic Glazed Pan Roasted Pears with Honeyed Cream
Makes 4 to 8 servings
½ cup cream cheese, at room temperature
½ cup honey, divided use
¼ cup sour cream or yogurt
Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste
4 firm Bartlett pears, not rock hard but not soft, halved and cored
2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar
Combine the cream cheese, ¼ cup honey, sour cream, and nutmeg. Set aside or make up a day ahead of time and refrigerate.
Melt the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Arrange, the pears, cut side down, in the pan. Cook until a deep golden, about 5 minutes. Turn the pears over and brush with the pan juices. Cover and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and remaining honey into the pan. Simmer, basting the pears with the pan juices, until the sauce is glossy and syrupy, about 5 minutes.
Arrange the pears, cut side up, on a serving platter. Spoon the juices over the pears and serve with a scoop of the cream mixture.
For this recipe, “pear up” things that grow together—pears, Ohio wine and Ohio honey for one fabulous flavor. Choose pears that are on the small side so they fit in the pan nicely. They should be firm enough to stand up to the poaching liquid, and not so soft and ripe that they loose their shape.
Pears Poached in Ohio Riesling
Makes 6 servings
6 ripe, firm pears, peeled, stems intact
1 (750ml) bottle Ohio Riesling
1 cup water
1 cup sugar or honey
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
One 1½ inch piece ginger root, peeled and sliced
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Vanilla ice cream, to accompany
Grated lemon zest, to garnish
In a large 2-quart saucepan, combine the wine, water and sugar. Bring the mixture to a boil and stir until the sugar (or honey dissolves). Remove from the heat and add the vanilla bean, ginger and lemon juice.
Add the pears to the pot, weighing down with a clean wet dishcloth or heatproof glass plate. It’s important to keep the pear submerged in the liquid so they cook evenly.
Return the pot to the heat over a medium low flame and slowly bring the syrup to a simmer. Adjust the heat so it remains at a bare simmer. Poach the pears until the tip of a sharp knife slips in and out easily. Remove from the heat and let the pears cool in their syrup. Remove from syrup, reserving syrup, cover and refrigerate for up to four days. Pour the syrup into another container and refrigerate.
To serve, pare a little slice from the bottom of the pears so they stand flat on a plate. Spoon some of the syrup over the top and serve with a small scoop of ice cream or sweetened whipped cream and some grated lemon zest.
Ohio has 88 counties, which means 88 county fairs. If you’re searching for honey, this is a great place to find one of the least traveled local foods (although bees can travel up to 2 miles to collect nectar). Fair booths are lined with bottles of honey that range in color from the lightest golden colored clover to the darkest buckwheat. What you’re looking at is a bottled history of the flowers, weeds, and trees that bloomed in your neck of the woods during the growing
season. In general, early season Ohio honeys like clover, black locust, and spring wildflower are the lightest in color and taste. As the season progresses, honey from goldenrods, buckwheat, and fall wildflowers will be darker and the taste much stronger. Some like delicate, subtle flavors in their honey; others prefer more robust, molasses-like flavors. But the true honey connoisseur loves them all!
Honey is such a precious sweetener that it’s best to use it as a compliment or a contrast. Don’t let it get lost among a jumble of strong flavors. This is a simple recipe that takes just a few minutes to throw together. The honey acts as both the compliment and a contrast to the strong, salty flavor or blue cheese.
Makes 6 to 8 appetizer servings
½-pound wedge of good quality blue cheese
Lightly colored Ohio honey (clover, spring wildflower, black locust)
Toasted walnuts or pine nuts, coarsely chopped
Whole grain crackers
Place the wedge of cheese on a serving platter. Drizzle with honey and sprinkle with the chopped nuts. Leave the honey nearby so guests can add more as desired. Spread the cheese on the crackers and enjoy with a glass of late harvest Riesling, Ohio Ice Wine or whatever pleases your palate!
Butter and honey, by themselves, are a perfect match, but toss in some chopped chives or chive blooms (fresh or from the freezer) and this will “butter your bread.” Makes some, freeze some and when you’re slathering this over warm, crusty bread this winter, offer a toast to Ohio’s hard working honeybees and beekeepers!
Honey & Chive Butter
Makes about 1 ¼ cups
1 cup unsalted butter, softened
2 to 3 tablespoons snipped fresh chives or chive blossoms, or a combination
2 to 3 tablespoons honey
Place all the ingredients in a medium bowl. Combine until well blended. Serve with warm, crusty bread. The butter can be refrigerated for up to a week, or frozen for up to three months. Let soften slightly before serving.
Recipes from the Ohio Farm Bureau Event
at Stricker's Grove
Ohio has a lot of little well kept secrets and one of the best is Stricker’s Grove in Ross near Cincinnati. It’s a delightful family-owned amusement park that will make you feel nostalgic about a time where the simpler pleasures in life, like a roller coaster ride, a snow cone, and a respectable skeeball score, were all it took to make you happy.
The Butler, Hamilton, Montgomery, & Warren Counties County Farm Bureaus invited me down in mid-August to do a couple of cooking demos on the grill during a members benefits event that attracted more than 1,000 people. If I do say so myself, it was a delicious event.
We started off with a refreshing Tomato Orange Cocktail made with homemade Ohio Tomato Juice. From there it was uphill all the way: Minted Honeydew Salad, Watermelon, Feta, and Mint Salad. Then we fired up the grill and made Grilled Peach Salad, Blue Cheese Burgers with Grilled Red Onions, Grilled Flank Steak, and a Pesto Stuffed Pork Tenderloin with Hot Pepper Jelly Glaze.
As promised, here are the recipes. Simply click on the one that makes your mouth water and get cooking! Stay cool...and so nice of you to join me!
When it comes to choosing ripe, flavorful melons, one method does not fit all. Each variety has its own subtle signal. Here’s a quick primer on how to choose the best melons your hard earned dollar can buy. The recipe that follows puts the spotlight on the star ingredient—melons!
Watermelons respond to a good thumping. Knock a few times. If the sounds hollow, it’s a keeper. If it sounds like you’re knocking on solid wood, it’s either under or over ripe. The skin should also have a waxy feeling and the ‘belly,’ the spot where the watermelon rested on the ground while growing, should be a creamy yellow, not white or pale green.
Watermelon, Feta, & Mint Salad
Makes 4 to 6 servings
4 cups diced seedless watermelon
1 cup diced feta cheese
1/2 cup mint leaves, chiffonade
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
Combine all of the ingredients. Chill to blend flavors.
Taste and add salt if desired, but feta cheese serves as the salty component.
For cantaloupes, it’s all about the ‘slip’—the point where the vine attached to the melon while growing. If any portion of the stem is still attached, the melon was picked too soon. The slip should have a slight indentation, green in color, and the melon should have an all over golden color covered by scaly netting. Unsure? Use the sniff test: if the melon smells like sweet, ripe cantaloupe, it probably is.
Cantaloupe, Watermelon & Red Pepper Salsa
Makes about 3 ½ cups
1 cup diced cantaloupe, seeds and rind removed
1 cup diced watermelon, seeds and rind removed
½ red bell pepper, finely chopped
½ small sweet onion, finely chopped
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, stems and leaves
1 jalapeno pepper, diced (use more or less to taste)
2 tablespoons fresh chopped mint
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Salty tortilla chips, to accompany
Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and toss together. Season to taste with salt.
Of all melons, honeydew is the most difficult to determine ripeness. It should be smooth, firm with an all-over consistent color and a silky, velvety feel to the skin. If the skin is white, the flavor will be less sweet, almost cucumber-like, but if the skin is a creamy white, the flavor is likely to be sweet and sugary. The blossom end should ‘give’ a little when pressed and one sniff should yield a sweet, almost tropical fruit fragrance.
Minted Honeydew
Makes 4 to 6 servings
4 cups honeydew melon
1/2 cup freshly chopped mint leaves, more or less to taste
1/4 cup freshly chopped cilantro leaves and stems, more or less to taste
3 tablespoons sugar, more or less to taste
1 fresh lime, zested and juiced
Toss all of the ingredients together. Chill for one hour and serve with a glass of Ohio Ice Wine!
Pecks of tomatoes are lining up at the farm stands everywhere and that can only mean one thing! Well, okay…it means a lot of things: salsas, bruschetta, and sauces but I’m talking about juice—fresh tomato juice. Come February, that Bloody Mary you’re mixing is going to be screaming for some fresh tomato juice. If you’re new to canning, making tomato juice might be the confidence builder you need to tackle other canning projects.
The first step is to go to the Ohio State University Extension Service website and click on the the county where you live. You’ll have to root around a little bit but many county extension services offer canning workshops this season to get you started in the art of “putting up.” Or you can register for Canning 101: A Primer on Preserving at Laurel Run Cooking School in Vermilion. I'll be happy to take you through the paces!
This recipe will yield about 7 quarts of juice or approximately 112 cocktails with a local connection. While this recipe calls for any type of tomato, orange and yellow varieties like Kellogg’s Breakfast, Yellow Brandywine, or Big Rainbow add a sunny color and bright flavor to homemade tomato juice.
Tomato Juice
Makes 7 quarts
23 pounds ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
Salt
Sugar
14 tablespoons lemon juice
Place the empty canning jars in a water bath canner. Fill with enough water to reach 1-inch above the tops of the jars. Cover and bring to a boil. Fill a smaller saucepan with water and add the lids and bands. Bring to a simmer.
Place the tomatoes in a large stockpot over medium heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes have collapsed and given up their juice, about 30 to 40 minutes.
Pass the tomatoes through a food mill to remove the skins and tomato seeds.
Return the juice to the stockpot and bring to a boil. Taste and add sugar and salt to taste.
Remove the jars from the canner and add 2 tablespoons of lemon juice to each jar. Fill each jar with tomato juice leaving ½-inch headspace. Place a lid on each jar and then a band. Do not over tighten.
Process in the boiling water bath for 40 minutes.
Remove from the canner and let rest undisturbed on the counter. Listen for the characteristic ‘pop.’ That means that the jar has created a seal. If there is a jar that does not seal, refrigerate and use within a week.
Store the jars in the pantry for up to 6 months.
Tomatoes and oranges are natural teammates, each with their own special balance of sweetness and natural acidity. Add a couple of sprigs of mint to this breakfast cocktail and get your day off to a good start.
Tomato Orange Cocktail
Makes 4 one cup servings
3 cups fresh tomato juice
1 cup fresh orange juice
Salt, to taste
Sugar, to taste
Sprigs of mint, crushed, plus extra for garnish
Place the crushed mint in a tall pitcher. Add the tomato and orange juice. Stir to combine. Taste and season with salt and sugar, if desired. Chill for one hour or serve over ice cubes with a sprig of mint.
Summer has finally turned on some heat and with it a few ripe tomatoes. Tomatoes like it hot at night, between 68°F and 77°F and when temperatures stray to far from this range, the ripening process crawls to a halt. Once the temps warm up, it should put tomatoes on the right track. If you’re a gardener there’s not much you can do than wait it out and arm yourself with some really terrific recipes like the ones below.
This recipe demands dead ripe red tomatoes for the best possible
flavor. Anything less will be a waste of your time!
Tomato Bread Pudding
Makes 6 servings
2 1/2 pounds ripe red heirloom tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced (see note)
1/4 cup Zinfandel (chicken stock may be substituted)
1/4 cup raisins
3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
3 tablespoons packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Pinch of cayenne pepper
6 cups day old bread, crust on, cut into 1-inch cubes
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 cup (4-ounces shredded) Swiss Cheese
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Grease an 8-inch square baking dish.
In a small saucepan, combine the tomatoes, wine, raisins, basil, thyme, brown, sugar, Worcestershire sauce, and cayenne. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.
In a large bowl, toss the bread cubes with the butter and cheese. Add the tomatoes mixture and toss again. Spread the mixture in the prepared baking dish in an even layer, pressing down to compact and bake until a golden brown crust forms, about 25 to 30 minutes. Let rest for at least 15 minutes before serving.
Note: To prepare the tomatoes, cut a small 'x' in the bottom of each tomato. Plunge into boiling water for 30 seconds and remove with a slotted spoon. When cool enough to handle, slip the skins off and scoop out the stem and core. Cut the tomato in half across the equator, hold over a bowl and squeeze gently. Most of the seeds should come out. Then proceed to dice the tomatoes. Place a strainer over the pot you intend to use for cooking and strain the discarded seeds to capture the juices in the pan.
An heirloom variety like Eva’s Purple Ball is the perfect choice for this unusual bruschetta. The deep, rich flavors and colors of this nineteenth century heirloom are a perfect contrast to sweet, Ohio watermelon.
Tomato & Watermelon Bruschetta
Serves 6 to 8
2 pounds heirloom tomatoes (Eva’s Purple Ball preferred)
1 1/2 pounds seedless red watermelon, peeled and
cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 3 cups)
3 tablespoons torn or thinly sliced opal basil
1 1/2 tablespoons Vincotto (Italian sweet vinegar) or balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon light olive oil
Sea salt to taste
Toasted slices of sourdough baguette or other rustic style bread
In a large bowl, toss the tomatoes, watermelon, basil, vinegar and olive oil together. Season with salt.
To serve, spoon onto toasted bread slices.
Truly, the best way to enjoy most berries is straight off the bushor the vine and then out of hand, still sun warmed. Finding naturally sweet blackberries can sometimes be a hit-or-miss experience. Sometimes it’s just the nature of the varietals with a taste that leans toward the sour. Blackberries are just slow growers to begin with. Add a cool summer, and they can slow to a crawl. The result? Pucker up and get the sugar out of the cupboard.
A classic blackberry pie is the perfect place for juicy, sour blackberries. They makes one of the most handsome, appealing pies that you owe it to yourself to make just one this year. The recipe for a Perfect Pie Crust is one that works in harmony with pies that tend to be extra juicy like blackberries and peaches. Go to this picture tutorial for a little hand-holding if you’re new to making pie crusts. Be sure to scroll to the bottom for Essential Tips for Successful Pies.
Blackberry Pie
Makes one 9-inch double crust pie
For the perfect pie crust...
1 ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon all purpose flour
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons cake flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 cup butter, lard or shortening, cut into ½-inch dice and chilled
6-8 tablespoons ice water
1/8 teaspoon cider vinegar
Blackberry pie filling...
5 cups blackberries, washed and dried
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Heavy cream, for brushing
Coarse sugar, for sprinkling (optional)
To make the pie crust...in a medium-size mixing bowl, sift together the dry ingredients. Using a fork or your fingertips, quickly work in the fat until the mixture is coarse and crumbly. Combine the vinegar and water. Pour the liquid into the dry ingredients and shake the bowl a few times to combine. Using your fingers, fluff the mixture up from the bottom of the bowl just until it begins to come together. Shape into a disk and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate until ready to roll out.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425°F.
To prepare the filling...place the berries in a large bowl. Toss 1 cup of the sugar and the flour together. Sprinkle over the berries along with the chilled butter and lemon juice. Toss all together.
To assemble the pie...divide the chilled dough in half. On a lightly floured surface, roll out each portion to a 1/8-inch thickness, about 12 inches in diameter. Transfer one portion to a 9-inch pie plate, draping it evenly over the edges. Add the pie filling. Place the remaining dough over the top. Using scissors, trim the dough to within 1 inch of the edge. Fold under the overhang and crimp, as desired. Cut a few slits in the top to vent. Refrigerate 20 minutes.
Lightly brush the top of the crust and edges with the heavy cream. Sprinkle with coarse sugar, if desired. Place in the oven and bake 45 to 50 minutes or until the crust is golden.
Note: If the crust darkens too quickly, tent lightly with foil. Continue to bake for the allotted time, removing foil the last 5 minutes.
Use any seasonal berry for this recipe but since it’s blackberry season, you might want to go with the flow. Use this honey over a toasted English muffin or swirled into yogurt or a sweet addition to teas.
Blackberry Honey
Makes about 1 ½ cups
1 cup ripe blackberries, crushed
1 ½ cups honey
¼ cup water
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
Combine the berries, ½ cup honey and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil then immediately reduce to a simmer and let cook for 15 minutes. Stir in the remaining honey. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Stir in lemon rind. Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
Blueberries are an easy-going fruit…there’s no peeling,pitting, coring, or cutting. Other than the birds, they have few natural pests so pesticide use is often unnecessary. If you’re heading out to pick your own berries this season, remember that white or green berries are not fully ripened and will not ripen after they leave the bush. However, berries that have turned purple, or blue will continue to ripen at room temperature after they are picked.
Soup is supposed to be hot, right? Not if you’re trying to stay cool. It makes perfect sense in the summer to serve a soup that’s downright cold to cool the body off a few degrees, especially when the temperature goes over 90°F. Add a sprig mint, a cooling menthol, and a hot summer never seemed so cool. And by the way, breakfast is a great meal to begin with chilled, refreshing soups.
Chilled Blueberry Soup
Serves 6
¼ to ½ cup honey, more or less to taste
2 cups water
1 ½ pounds ripe blueberries
½ to ¾ cup sweet white Ohio wine
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
¾ cup low fat buttermilk or plain yogurt
Sprigs of fresh mint, for garnish
In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar with 2 cups water; bring to boil over high heat. Add the blueberries, wine, and lemon zest. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally until all the blueberries have burst and collapsed, about 4 minutes.
Pass the mixture through a food mill or a fine sieve into a large bowl, pressing to extract juices. Discard the skins left behind. Stir the lemon juice into the liquid. Cover with plastic and refrigerate until completely chilled, about 2 hours.
Divide the soup between six chilled soup bowls. Swirl about 2 tablespoons buttermilk into each bowl, garnish with a sprig or mint, and serve immediately.
If you’ve picked big fat blueberries, there’s no more fitting recipe for them than this. All other blueberry muffin recipes pale in comparison to the big crunchy crowns this one delivers. Don’t skip the step of refrigerating!
Big Fat Blueberry Muffins
Makes one dozen
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 large eggs
1⁄2 cup whole milk
31⁄2 cups sifted all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon baking powder
3⁄4 cup granulated sugar
1⁄8 teaspoon salt
11⁄2 cups fresh blueberries
Coarse sugar for sprinkling
Line a 12-cup muffin tin with paper muffin cups or coat the cups of the tin with cooking spray. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Set aside to cool. In a large mixing bowl, beat the eggs until well blended, about 2 minutes. Add the melted butter and the milk.
In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt. Add to the egg mixture and mix until just blended, less than one minute. Fold in the blueberries. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Spoon the batter into the prepared baking cups so that it mounds about 1⁄2-inch above the top of each cup. Sprinkle the tops with coarse sugar. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool before removing from the pan.
Could Jackie Gleason have been talking about Ohio sweet corn? The season is upon us, and the ears might be small but the flavor is mighty good. An average ear of corn has 800 kernels dispersed throughout 16 rows and each delicate strand of silk that we work to remove is attached to one of those kernels. The cooler weather has certainly slowed the harvest of many fruits and vegetables, but some things are just worth waiting for—and Ohio sweet corn would certainly be among them.
If you don't know by now that it's bad form to peel back the huskon ear after ear of sweet corn to tell if it's ripe and fully developed, I'm here to tell you: It's bad form. Farmers are not crazy about customers mangling the corn, leaving it exposed to the the elements. Here's what my local grower, Richard Aufdenkampe from Aufdenklampe Family Farm, Vermilion suggests. "Feel it with your hands," he suggests. "You can actually feel any imperfections and the size of the kernels." If you can't restrain yourself, stripping back the husk on one is okay. If it's good, meaning the kernels are plump, juicy, and fill the ear all the way to the tip, you'll get a pretty good idea of how the rest will be.
Fire up the grill and rush the sweet corn in from the field. The minute sweet corn is picked, the sugars begin to turn to starch and the kernels are on their way to becoming chewy. Preparing corn the same day it is bought is your best assurance that it will be sweet and tender.
Grilled Sweet Corn
Makes 4 to 6 servings
6 ears of fresh sweet corn
Water
Butter, at room temperature
Kosher salt
Fill a large tub or bucket with cold water. Submerge the ears of corn in the water, weighing down with something heavy to keep them under water. Soak the corn for no less than 2 and up to 6 hours.
Preheat the grill to medium-high. Remove the corn from the water and place in a single layer on the grate. Cover and cook for 5 minutes before turning the ears a quarter turn. Turn the corn every 5 minutes until the husks are dry and grill marks appear on the leaves. The total cooking time should be about 20 minutes.
To test for doneness, pull back the husk and with the tip of knife, pierce a kernel. It should pierce easily.
Have guests pull back the husks and silks on the corn. Slather with butter and sprinkle with kosher salt.
Note: Kosher salt is the preferred choice for salting corn because the sharp edges on the salt clinsg to the kernels.
Since you already have the grill fired up for Grilled Sweet Corn, take a few more minutes and grill an extra half dozen. The corn can be grilled one day, cooled, kernels removed and refrigerated. Use them the next day to complete this classic recipe. Grilling adds a nice roasted flavor but you can boil the corn, too.
Makes 6 servings
6 to 8 ears fresh sweet corn, unhusked
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, peeled and diced
4 whole eggs
1 cup heavy whipping cream
½ cup milk
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Chopped fresh chives, for garnish
Prepare the corn for grilling as described in the Grilled Corn recipe above. When cool, cut the kernels from the cob and set aside.
Melt one tablespoon of butter and brush the inside of six 4-ounce ramekins. Set aside.
Melt the remainder of the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until tender.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a large bowl, lightly beat the eggs. Stir in the cream, milk, nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the corn. Divide the mixture between the ramekins. Arrange the onions on the top. Bake until the custard is set, about 25 to30 minutes. The center may appear a little soft.
Garnish with chives and serve.
The cool Ohio summer has slowed the ripening of tomatoes. If you’re growing impatient for your first taste, consider picking them when they are green, "breaking" (less than ten percent of the surface has a yellow or pinkish blush), or "turning" (less than 30 percent of the fruit shows a change in color). While these tomatoes are still immature and have not developed their full flavor potential, you can still get a jump start on enjoying them. Their tart flavor mellows a bit and the firm texture softens when cooked. Check back at the end of the growing season for more green tomato recipes.
In the movie Fried Green Tomatoes, The Whistle Stop Café was famous for their version of fried green tomatoes. Once you’ve had a taste, you’ll understand what it is that catapulted them to fame. Crunchy on the outside and tender and tart on the inside, you might be tempted to pick the vines clean before the ‘maters ripen. Practice restraint, please.
Fried Green Tomatoes With Horseradish Sauce
Serves 2 to 4
4 medium sized green (unripe) tomatoes, sliced ¼-inch thick
2 eggs
Splash of milk
½ cup all-purpose flour, plus extra
2/3 cup coarse yellow cornmeal
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable oil for frying
½ cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons horseradish, more or less to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste.
Pour enough vegetable oil in a deep frying pan (cast iron works best for this recipe) to come up about ¾-inch. Heat the oil for about 10 to 15 minutes or until the temperature reaches 350°F when checked with a thermometer.
In a shallow bowl, beat the eggs with a splash of milk.
In another shallow bowl, combine the ½ cup flour, cornmeal, salt, and pepper.
Place some flour for dusting in a sealable plastic bag. Add the tomatoes and shake until the tomatoes are coated.
Dip the floured tomatoes in the beaten egg and then in the cornmeal mixture.
Add to the hot oil and fry 4 to 5 minutes per side, turning when they are golden. Adjust the heat, if necessary, to prevent them from browning. Drain on paper towels to remove excess oil,
In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise and horseradish. Taste and season with salt and pepper.
To serve, place the tomatoes on a warmed salad plate and top with a dollop of horseradish sauce.
Dolly Parton has a version of this cake as well as Paula Dean which is a clue to its southern origin. Hey! Ohioans have plenty of green tomatoes, too! Even without the celeb factor, this delicious breakfast cake is sweet and tangy and wonderful served with a dollop of slightly sweetened whipped cream or a glass of cold fresh milk. To get the right texture and taste you must use unripe tomatoes.
Green Tomato Cake
Makes one 9 x 13-inch cake
4 cups chopped green tomatoes
1 tablespoon salt
1/2 cup butter, at room temperature
2 cups sugar
2 eggs
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
Toss the chopped tomatoes with the tablespoon of salt. Place in a colander and let stand for 30 minutes. Rinse with cold water and drain.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a 9 x 13-inch baking pan.
Place the butter and sugar in a mixing bowl. Cream together on medium speed for 5 minutes. Add eggs and beat until creamy.
In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking soda, and salt. Toss the raisins and nuts in the flour mixture. Add the dry ingredients to the creamed mixture and mix well. The dough will be stiff.
Add the drained tomatoes and mix well. Pour into the prepared pan.
Bake for 45 to 50 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean.
Let cool for at least one hour before slicing and serving with whipped cream.
is a delicious thing and the first varieties are just coming out of Ohio orchards. Lodi, an antique variety, is a tart green number that looks like a cross between a Golden Delicious and a Granny Smith. Inside, the flesh is tender and juicy and peels so thin that some fans don’t bother to remove it before using. Lodi has a short season and doesn’t store well. So what are you waiting for? To find an Ohio orchard that harvests Lodi apples, go to Ohio Apples or All About Apples.
Lodi is a coveted pie apple and makes a pretty good sauce, too. This sauce recipe freezes well and most every ingredient can be found close to home, from your garden to a farmers market. Roasting the apples adds an interesting flavor that is the perfect compliment to fall and winter weather. Be sure to make enough for the freezer to satisfy your craving for out of season flavors.
Roasted Lodi Apple & Sage Sauce
Make enough to enjoy now and freeze for later
3 to 4 pounds Lodi apples, peeled, cored, and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup maple syrup or more, to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage, more or less to taste
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Toss the apple pieces with the olive oil to coat. Spread in a single layer on a baking sheet. Roast for 10 to 15 minutes, then stir and roast for another 10 minutes or until the apples are soft enough to mash.
Transfer apples to a large bowl and mash to a rough consistency. Sweeten with the maple syrup and add chopped sage, to taste.
To freeze, package in sealable heavy duty plastic bags, squeezing excess air out and store in freezer for up to 6 months.
Few pleasures at the table can match that of a simply prepared, perfectly roasted chicken—crispy brown on the outside, moist and juicy on the inside. Allowing the bird to “rest” gives the juices a chance to equalize throughout the bird. The result? When the chicken is carved, you won’t find puddles of juice on the cutting board—it remains inside the meat.
Perfect Roast Chicken
Makes 6 servings
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 clove garlic, minced
1⁄2 teaspoon coarse salt
1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1⁄4 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil divided use
1 (3 to 4 pounds) chicken, trimmed of fat, rinsed and patted dry with a paper towel
Preheat oven to 500°F. Combine the lemon juice, garlic, salt, pepper, and oregano. Stir in ¼ cup of the olive oil. Set aside.
Brush the chicken with the remaining tablespoon of oil. Place breast side down on a rack in a roasting pan. Roast for 20 minutes before turning breast side up. Allow to roast for a few more minutes, or until the breast begins to brown. Baste with the lemon mixture. Reduce the heat to 350°F and roast for 30 to 35 minutes, basting two or three times, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 160°F. 
Pour the juices inside the bird into the roasting pan. Place the bird on a cutting surface, cover, and let rest for at least 10 minutes. Meanwhile, pour the pan juices into a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Season to taste with salt and pepper. When ready to serve, carve the bird and serve with the pan juices.
Remember the scene in Cool Hand Luke where Paul Newman eats 50 hardboiled eggs in an hour? His grin at the end leaves no doubt that the eggs were from a flock that enjoyed great lives roaming the fields, foraging for bugs, juicy weeds, and tender shoots of grass. If they were from the grocery store, he wouldn’t be smiling. Spring through fall are the optimal times to find fresh eggs at your local farmers market or in your backyard, if you’ve joined the ranks of those who keep small flocks on their property.
If there ever was a recipe where every ingredient could be gathered locally, this is it. Eggs, maple syrup, butter, bread, bacon...sounds like a trip to the farmers’ market. An added bonus is that it’s easy to make and looks really special.
Baked Eggs in Maple Toast Cups
Serves 3 to 6
1 1/2 tablespoons butter, plus extra to grease muffin tin
1 1/2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
6 slices sandwich bread, crusts trimmed
3 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled
6 large fresh eggs
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter 6 muffin cups or 6 ramekins (4 or 6 ounce size). Melt the butter with the syrup.
Take the white bread and flatten each with a rolling pin. Brush both sides with the butter and syrup mixture and tuck into muffin cups. Divide the cooked bacon between the cups. Break an egg into each cup. Bake until the eggs are set. This will take anywhere from 14 to 16 minutes. Check the eggs after 10 minutes. The whites should be opaque and the yolks should still jiggle a bit.
The cups will pop right out of the muffin tin or serve the individual ramekins, passing additional maple syrup.
Nature hands us such complex flavor in such a simple ingredient—the egg. It’s up to the cook to call as much attention to the flavor and fabulous color of fresh eggs in recipes like this basic custard. The rich gold color is what you’ll notice first. But then there’s that first bite….mmmmmm!
Simple Egg Custard
Makes 6 servings
2 fresh whole eggs
2 egg yolks
2 cups whole milk
½ cup sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Grating of nutmeg
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Set six 4-ounce custard cups in a shallow baking pan.
Pour the milk into a large saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat.
In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, yolks, sugar, and vanilla. Slowly pour the egg mixture into the simmering milk, whisking gently to combine. Pour the mixture through a strainer into the cups, and then sprinkle lightly with nutmeg.
Pour hot, not boiling, water into the pan until it reaches halfway up the sides of the cups. Bake until the custard is set, 30 to 35 minutes. (The custard may jiggle a little in the cups)
Let the custard cool in the water bath for 2 hours. Serve at room temperature with a few fresh, seasonal berries.
Zucchini is a small summer squash that is delicious and versatile in its petite form. Turn your back on the garden for a day or two and next thing you know, you’re looking at a zuke the size of a fungo bat...and about as delicious, too! Size matters when choosing any zucchini for any purpose. Always look for smaller, more compact versions with smooth shiny skins. The best recipe for too big zucchini is to chop it up, salt it, and feed it to the compost pile.
Whether it’s short and squat or long and slender, this recipe accommodates all varieties of summer squash. Mix up shapes and colors for an eye appealing presentation. Cut the slices on a sharp diagonal or into long planks (from stem to blossom end) so they are long, broad, and less likely to slip through the grill grate.
Grilled Zucchini & Yellow Squash with Greek Spices
Serves 6 to 8 servings
2 to 3 medium zucchini (about 1 pound in all) 
2 to 3 yellow squash (about 1 pound in all)
1 to 2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon dried mint
1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
Coarse salt and black pepper
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Lemon wedges, for serving
Cut the zucchini and yellow squash into ¼-inch thick slices. Arrange on a large baking tray and sprinkle both sides with the garlic, oregano, mint, hot pepper flakes and lots of salt and pepper. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of oil over them, turning the slices several times to coat. Let marinate for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the grill to high (if using a vegetable grate, preheat that as well). When ready to cook, arrange the zucchini and yellow squash slices on the hot grate and grill until nicely browned and grill marks appear on both sides, 4 to 6 minutes per side.
Transfer to a platter. Drizzle the remaining tablespoon of oil over the zucchini and yellow squash and garnish with lemon wedges, if using. Serve at once.
The mild, almost bland, taste of zucchini and summer squash is the perfect backdrop for other flavors like the cilantro in this recipe. Tender slices of squash because buttery and almost melt in your mouth simmered in cream. Don’t be fooled by the simplicity of this recipe…the result is some pretty complex flavor.
Zucchini With Cilantro & Cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 ¾ pound zucchini or summer squash, cut into 1/4-inch rounds
4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
½ cup heavy whipping cream at room temperature
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Melt the butter in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté for about 30 seconds. Add the zucchini and half of the cilantro. Sauté until the zucchini is crisp tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Pour in the cream and simmer for about one minute until slightly thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste and garnish with the remaining cilantro.
You Don't Know Beans…Or DoYou?
Beans keep showing up throughout the harvest season but do you know the difference in varieties? Pole and half runner have more flavor, mature throughout the growing season, and yield a larger harvest. Good to know whether you're a home gardener looking for seeds or at a farmers market looking for beans! If they're called snap or bush beans, they grow as a small bush, about two feet high. These beans mature all at once, which is a good feature if you plan on doing some canning or freezing.
There are a few simple steps to preparing this beautiful salad, but when the colors and textures all come together in the serving bowl, you’ll appreciate your efforts. One bite, and you’ll pat yourself on the back.
Green Bean Salad With Caramelized Red Onion & Mustard Seed Vinaigrette
Makes 6 to 8 servings
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided use
2 tablespoons mustard seeds
1/3 cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1 large red onion, thinly sliced
2 pounds fresh green beans, trimmed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Heat one tablespoon of oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add the mustard seeds and cook, stirring constantly, until they begin to ‘pop’ and are a shade darker, about 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer seeds and oil to a large bowl.
Combine the vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Set aside to cool.
Heat the remaining oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the onions, and stir until coated with oil. Cook for 5 minutes until the onions just begin to soften, and then reduce the heat to medium low and cook for an additional 10 to 14 minutes until the onions are soft and fragrant but still brightly color.
Remove from the heat and stir in the vinegar, mustard seeds, and oil.
Prepare a large bowl of ice water and set aside. Cook the beans in a large pot of salted water until crisp tender and bright green, about 4 to 5 minutes. Drain in a colander and then plunge beans into the ice water. Let sit for 2 minutes then drain well.
Toss the beans with the vinaigrette, season with salt and pepper and serve at room temperature or chill for at least 4 hours or overnight.
This recipe works equally well with fresh green beans or those frozen from a bumper crop. If using frozen beans, reduce the cooking time to only a few minutes to retain the crisp texture and the vibrant color.
Green Bean & Walnut Sauté
Makes 6 to 8 servings
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
2 pounds fresh green beans, washed and trimmed
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons walnut oil or canola oil
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the chopped walnuts on a baking sheet and toast for 5 to 8 minutes until lightly browned and fragrant. Watch carefully so nuts don’t burn. Remove from baking sheet into a bowl and let cool.
Cook the beans in a large pot of boiling salted water until just tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Drain well. (This step can be done up to 6 hours ahead of time and held at room temperature)
Melt the butter with the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium high heat. Add the bean and toss until coated and heated through, about 4 to 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add the walnuts and parsley and toss. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately.
Panic sets in when local strawberry seasons wind down. The upside is that raspberry season makes for a smooth transition when your palate has been busy reacquainting itself with the fresh taste of summer fruit. Berries arrive mid-summer and again in the fall for everbearing varieties. Red raspberries are the most common varieties found but don’t miss out on the black, purple, or golden varieties, lesser in numbers but big in flavor—pretty to behold, too!
Everyone has a vice…some are just more delicious than others! Make this luscious liquor during the height of berry season and squirrel it away until Christmas time. Smooth and velvety, it’s a great way to toast the holiday season with flavors you enjoyed last summer. To keep the colors jewel-like, avoid mixing varieties in the same batch.
Raspberry Liqueur
Makes about 2 cups
10 ounces of fresh raspberries, red, gold, or black
1 ½ cups vodka or 1 cup vodka and ½ cup brandy
¼ cup sugar syrup (instructions follow)
In a large bowl, lightly crush the berries. Place in a quart jar with a tight fitting lid. Add the vodka. Seal the jar and set aside to steep for two weeks. Pour through a fine mesh strainer or filter, crushing the berries to release color and juice. Add sugar syrup to taste. Transfer liqueur to a decorative bottle with a tight fitting cork. Enjoy now or in the future.
To make sugar syrup, combine 1 cup sugar with ½ cup water. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally until sugar is dissolved. Cool to room temperature before using. Refrigerate any left over syrup in a sealed container.
Raspberries are so precious that they deserve to be enjoyed in one of two ways: gobbled straight off the vine or respected in a recipe where the complimenting ingredients are equally as wonderful. A sabayon is a delicious and delicate sauce-like base for fresh (never frozen!) berries.
Chilled Raspberry Sabayon
Makes 6 to 8 servings
1 cup sugar
10 egg yolks
½ cup champagne or good quality white wine
½ cup raspberry brandy or Contreau
4 cups fresh raspberries, divided use
Fresh mint leaves, for garnish
Crush one cup of the berries and set aside.
In the top of a double boiler, whisk together the sugar and egg yolks. Stir in the champagne and brandy. Place over gently simmering water and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture becomes thick and foamy. Gently fold the crushed berries into the cream mixture, divide between dessert cups and chill.
Just before serving, spoon the remaining berries over the chilled sabayon and garnish with a mint leaf.
Put Some Spring Into Your Onions!
You’re probably noticing red and white spring onions on roadside stands and at farmers markets. These are the heftier cousins of green onions with a slightly more rounded and defined bulb and a little more onion-y heat. Use them as you would in recipes calling for green onion, adding in thin slices.
The beauty of homegrown and locally grown food is that so much of the flavor, texture, and nutritional value are intact when it arrives in your kitchen so the need to dress them up with other ingredients is often time wasted. Here’s a perfect example of how flavor trumps an ingredient list.
Roasted Red Spring Onions
Makes 6 servings
6 red spring onions, on the larger size
Chopped fresh thyme
Coarse sea salt
Balsamic vinegar
Butter
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly butter a small, shallow baking dish.
Trim the root end of the bulbs to create a base so the onion can sit straight up. Remove the long green stem portion and reserve for another use (such as thin slices to add to a fresh salad, stir fries, or scrambled eggs). Make a shallow crosscut in the top of each onion, only going about half way down. Place some of thyme, salt, and a drizzle of the balsamic vinegar into the gaps.
Arrange the onions in a small shallow baking dish and top each with a knob of butter.
Roast for 25 to 30 minutes or until they are completely tender. Serve hot from the oven or warm.
Fresh herbs are one of the most delightful sights in the garden and there is almost nothing we can't find to add them to. This recipe is a great way to wake up in the morning.
Scrambled Eggs with Spring Herbs & Onions
Serves 2
4 fresh eggs
2 tablespoons cream cheese, softened and cubed
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives
1-2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup thinly sliced tops from spring onions, more or less to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Crack the eggs into a medium mixing bowl. Lightly scramble the yolks and whites together with a fork or a whisk. Add the cubed cream cheese and chopped herbs. Set aside.
Place a medium nonstick skillet over medium high heat. Add the butter. When the butter is melted, add the onions and sauté briefly, about thirty seconds to soften. Add the egg mixture and allow to cook for one minute. Stir once or twice until the eggs have set but are still moist and creamy in appearance. Remove from heat and season to taste with salt and pepper.
If spring were a flavor, it would be peas! They arrive green as could be as shelling, snap, and snow varieties. The hardest part is choosing which suits your taste and time. Shelling peas is work, not the hardest work you’ll ever do, but in terms of flavor certainly rewarding. Edible pods versions include the chunky snap pea and her skinny sister, the snow pea, are effortless in terms of preparation and well as tasty.
Classic hummus is made from chickpeas but if you use your imagination there are plenty of suitable and toothsome substitutes including the classic garden pea. The result is not only fresh flavor but also a beautiful mint green color, Beyond a dip, use the spread for sandwiches or as a base for a pita pizza topped with chopped, fresh vegetables.
Green Pea Hummus
Makes 6 to 8 appetizer servings
3 cups freshly shelled peas
3 cloves garlic, peeled
3 tablespoons tahini
Juice of one large lemon
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon olive oil, more or less to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of chili powder or chipotle powder
Pita chips or crackers, to accompany
Place the peas in a large saucepan of boiling water. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes until tender. Drain and set aside to cool slightly.
Place the garlic, tahini, and lemon juice into the work bowl of a food processor. Add the peas and process for about 30 seconds. Add the cumin, salt, olive oil, pepper, and chili powder and process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the work bowl once or twice. Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Serve with pita chips or crackers.
The rule for the most natural pairing of ingredients is this: if it grows together, it goes together. This time of year you can either walk into you garden or down the rows at a farmers market and easily come across the main ingredients: peas, radishes, and mint. What a lovely combination of sweet, peppery, and cool!
Spring Pea Salad with Radishes & Mint
½ cup thinly sliced radishes
1 ½ cup sliced snap peas, cut on the diagonal
4 ounces crumbled ricotta or goats cheese
¼ cup mint leaves, torn (more or less to taste)
1 clove garlic, minced
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablepoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar (preferably white balsamic)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
In a large salad bowl, toss the radishes, peas, ricotta, and mint.
Using a mortar and pestle, make a paste of the garlic and salt. Place in a small bowl and stir in the lemon juice and balsamic. Add the olive oil in a thin steady stream, whisking constantly until emulsified. Taste and season with additional salt and 
pepper.
Pour the dressing over the salad, tossing to coat. Adjust seasonings, if necessary, and serve.